In general travellers talk about the city as they do about bank line-ups and immigration offices: a pain, but unavoidable.

That said, if you've been travelling through the region, you'll find that compared to, say, San Salvador or Managua, San José is not only a reassuringly safe place (though street crime is rising) but also vibrant and cosmopolitan, with a sprinkling of excellent museums , some elegant buildings and landscaped parks, good cafés and the odd intriguing art gallery.

Which is all to the good: most people find themselves spending some time here - the city is a major transportation hub, and many journeys across the country involve backtracking through the capital - learning to enjoy it, and even becoming perversely fond of the place.

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